Following the end the French colonial era, Cambodia experienced somewhat of a hayday. Infrastructure and expertise left by the French led to the creation of vast wealth for Cambodia’s elite, this of course, was brought to a halt by the onset of the Khmer Rouge.
Playground of the Wealthy
Prior to the CPK taking control of the country in 1975 after a 5 year civil war, the Kirirom Mountain Plateau served as a summer hideaway for wealthy Cambodians. With an average temperature of 8’C less than the surrounding lowlands, Kirirom provided and escape from the oppressive heat of the city, for those that could afford it.
The area, which is one of only a few naturally occuring pine forests in SE Asia, proved so popular among Cambodia’s high society that King Norodom Sihanouk built a summer residence on one of the highest points of the mountain. Today, only the footings and a chimney stack remain after the mansion was sacked by the CPK.
Frozen in Time
Just off the tracks and dirt roads surrounding the King’s residence are several abandoned houses and villas of a similar style to ruined mansion. It is likely that these served as retreats for the King’s entourage and other wealthy Khmers prior to 1975.
Sadly, after the Khmer Rouge lost control of the country in 1979, many of the owners of the cottages, having either perished or fled the country, simply never returned to claim their estate.
A combination of not knowing who legally owned the land and Khmer superstitions meant that the properties were never reoccupied. Today, they sit, silently being reclaimed by the pristine forest that surrounds them.
Often referred to as the King’s residence on tourist maps (though they are not), probably the best preserved and most visited examples are a cluster of 4 villas just off the road to vKirirom resort. The cottages have long since been looted of any belongings and copper wire that were left behind, however, more permanent fixtures, such as windows, doors, and wooden paneling still remain intact. The locals still leave food and water at the small spirit house that marks the start of property’s driveway.
Compared to the other housing in the area, the construction of the buildings are of exceptional quality, features such as made to measure windows and ceramic roof tiles are not even common in the modern housing found locally. The architecture is reminiscent of European architecture of the 1960’s with (faux) concrete paneling on the exterior and wooden interior panelling and chair rails. Each of the properties also had a windowless basement, cut into the ground below, complete with almost polite graffiti adorning the walls.
If you are fortunate enough to visit Kirirom National Park it is certainly worthwhile spending an afternoon exploring the abandoned properties dotted around the area.