Thailand’s sprawling capital, and home to 10.5 million people, Bangkok, is a crazy, chaotic, steamy, modern Asian metropolis. Depending on your worldview, this could be right up your alley or your worst nightmare. Thailand is more than just beaches and jungles and chances are you’ll be starting your Thailand journey here. Like it or loathe it, you should forget what you’ve heard and give Bangkok a chance as the city has a lot to offer and can cater to just about every taste. Culturally, there are an abundance of sites to see and things to do. In culinary terms, Bangkok offers a lot, including the world’s first Michellin starred street food vendor, Jai Fai. Compared to other cities in South East Asia, Bangkok is a haven for shopaholics with so much to explore, with everything from world class malls, to sprawling street markets, bursting at the seams with independent traders and unique wares. If you’re in Thailand for a while, you could explore Bangkok’s sites and sounds for a day or two before heading out further afield, or you could spend a little more time and enjoy the city for what it is.
What to See in Bangkok
Grand Palace
The Grand Palace is Bangkok’s number one tourist attraction. This impressive complex is made up of several buildings and includes Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Grand Palace was built in 1782 and was home to the Thai monarchy for 150 years. Be warned that the dress code for these sites is strict and visitors are expected to wear modest, covered clothes so no shorts or sleeveless tops though you can borrow clothes at the entrance if you’re not suitably dressed. No flip-flops are allowed, you can wear sandals so long as they have a back to them.
If you would prefer a guided tour, you can grab a guide, at the ticket kiosk upon entry, don’t use anyone from outside the complex offering to guide you, as many scammers operate here, due to the amount of tourists the Grand Palace attracts. Don’t be taken in by anyone outside the complex that tries to tell you the Grand Palace is closed for the day, it’s a well worked ruse to get tourists into a tuk tuk to visit tailor shops, gold and gem shops or the like, where you will likely be pressured into buying things you don’t want.
Entrance costs a relatively pricey 350B for foreigners, but it is well worth it, plus the fee also includes entrance to Dusit park and the nearby Vimanmek Teak Mansion.
Vimanmek Teak Mansion
Vimanmek Teak Mansion, is the world’s largest teak mansion and is a must see if you’re interested in antiques or architecture. Built in 1868 on Koh Si Chang, it was moved to its current site in 1910. Even more impressive than the fact that it was moved from a nearby island, is the fact that the whole mansion was constructed without a single nail.
Admission costs 100B on it’s own or is free if you present your ticket from the Grand Palace. As it was a royal residence, the same dress code applies as for the Grand Palace. Visitors are advised to go earlier rather than later, it closes at 4pm.
Things To Do in Bangkok
Muay Thai
The best place for an evening watching Muay Thai (Thai kickboxing) is at Lumpini Boxing Stadium. There are matches at 7pm on Tuesdays and Fridays and at 5pm and 8.30pm on Saturdays. Tickets cost anywhere from 230 to 920B, depending on how close the action you want to get. .
Bicycle tours
As busy as Bangkok is, the city is riddled with quiet waterways and canals as well as a multitude of oases of tranquility, just off the beaten track. A great way to get to know the city is by taking one of the many guided bicycle tours on offer. Grasshopper Adventures, come highly recommended and offer several options with varying difficulty. Kids will have fun too as tag along bikes, attached to an adults seatpost are often available.
Nightlife
Bangkok’s nightlife is infamously sordid. There are a multitude of options for having fun and, if you’re that way inclined, indulging your seedy side.
Red-Light Districts
If you’re looking for go-go bars and ping pong shows then head to the red-light districts of Patpong, Soi Cowboy or Nana Plaza. You’ll find plenty of scantily clad girls, boys and ladyboys doing anything and everything for a price. Beware of pushy touts and over-priced drinks. Pickpockets are rife in these parts of town, so exercise caution.
Cabaret Bars
If you want to be cheeky but not risque, Calypso Cabaret is the place to go. They have two shows nightly at 8.15pm and 9.45pm, starring a host of glamourous lady boys. Expect to see anything from a Marilyn Monroe impersonator to lip-synching along with Chinese ballads. Reservations are advisable as it’s usually a sellout show. If you book ahead through their website it will cost 900B for adults (usually 1200B) or 600B for children. Yes, the show is suitable for children, and there is no nudity! The show takes place at the Asia Hotel, if you’re going by Skytrain it’s right next to the Ratchathewi Station.
Nightclubs
With plenty of wealthy Bangkokians and expats, Bangkok’s well-heeled set have a plethora of nightclubs to choose from. Clubs don’t kick off until 10pm or later and you can expect to pay an entrance fee of 200 to 600B which may or may not cover a drink or two. Dress well, as you would for a night out clubbing at home, and come with your ID as entrance is for those 20 years and up.
Rooftop bars
Skyscrapers make excellent places for rooftop bars with sweeping views of the city and river, they make an excellent place to sip cocktails and take in the sunset. They range in price and often have strict dress codes, so check in advance to avoid disappointment.
Dinner cruise
Dinner cruises are a popular way to spend an evening when visiting Bangkok. Experience the city at night from aboard a river boat on the Chao Phraya, whilst enjoying an extensive buffet and cool, refreshing drinks.
Getting around Bangkok
Bangkok Taxis
Bangkok’s brightly coloured, metered taxis are cheap and air-conditioned. Some drivers speak good English (look out for the I ♥ Farang sign on the window), others not so much but can usually get you to your destination. Grab your hotel’s card with the address in Thai just in case. Insist on the driver using the meter, if they won’t, get out and wait for the next taxi. Traffic can be a nightmare so avoid using a taxi from 4-6pm or be prepared to get stuck in gridlock. Fares should be 35B for the first 2kms and then 5B per km and 1.25B a minute if you’re stopped in traffic. It shouldn’t cost more than 100B for a cross-town journey, for example, Banglamphu to MBK Shopping Centre or Sukhumvit to the Grand Palace.
Motorbike Taxis
If you’re not close to a BTS or MRT station, getting around on a motorbike taxi is the best way to travel. On most street corners you’ll find guys in orange jackets waiting to ferry customers from A to B. At busy times of day there is no better way to travel, as the ability to squeeze through columns of stationary vehicles and cut through small alleys is a huge advantage in a city like Bangkok. Always negotiate your fare in advance and show the driver where you want to go to avoid any surprises.
Tuk Tuks
The ubiquitous tuk tuk, a three-wheeled auto rickshaw, is best avoided. Tuk tuk fares are negotiated prior to the journey – don’t even think about getting in one without agreeing upon the destination and the fare in advance. Even if you’ve negotiated a fare, chances are your driver will give you the runaround, stopping off at a tailor or gem store and insisting you step inside, to get a commission. If your time is valuable, don’t bother with one. If you can find a reliable, friendly driver who just takes you where you want to go it’s ok for a short hop around your local area. Metered taxis are a much better deal as they are air-conditioned and protected from Bangkok’s pollution and you know your fare will be fair.
River Taxis
The Chao Phraya river cuts through Bangkok and connects quite a few of the sites you’ll likely hit as a tourist including Wat Pho and Wat Arun. The Chao Phraya River Express boat service costs between 13 and 50THB a trip depending on the length of your journey or 150THB for a whole day pass on the special Tourist service. Buy your ticket onboard and make sure you have change as often they won’t change big notes. Different express services operate the route calling at different stops. A coloured flag on the boat indicates the type of express service. No flag means it’s a local boat calling at all stops. At the end of the line you can connect to the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station at Sathorn pier. It’s a great way of avoiding traffic gridlock especially at rush hour. See their website for route information.
BTS and MRT
The ultra-modern BTS Skytrain runs across much of downtown Bangkok. Purchase your tickets from vending machines at stations. Fares cost between 15 and 40B per journey or 120B for an all day pass. If you’re in Bangkok for a longer period of time consider getting a SmartPass card which will cut down the costs of individual journeys. There are two lines, Sukhimvit and Silom, which interchange at Siam station. A route map can be found on the BTS website. The Skytrain is a great way of getting around if you’re staying in Sukhumvit or Silom but it does not connect to the Banglamphu/Khao San Road area. If you’re doing a lot of shopping, you can reach MBK Centre, Siam Paragon, Siam Discovery, Siam Centre and Chatuchak Weekend Market by Skytrain. The Northern (Morchit) and Eastern (Ekkamai) bus terminals are also close to Skytrain stations. You can connect to the new Airport Rail Link at Makkasan station.
Bangkok’s subway or MRT only has the one line and is of that much use to tourists. There are a few stops of interest such as Hualamphong Train Station and Kamphaeng Phet which drops you at Chatuchak Weekend Market. If you’re using the Airport Rail link, get off at Makkasan Station where you can connect to the MRT station at Phetchaburi. You can’t use Skytrain passes on the MRT. Tickets start at 15B and fares depend on distance travelled and can be purchased at stations.
Best areas to stay in Bangkok
Banglamphu and Khao San Road
Khao San Road is a backpacker ghetto filled with windowless flophouses, loud bars and streets lined with everything a backpacker could need from bikinis to henna tattoos to banana pancakes. The unwashed masses drink overpriced Chang beer and buckets of cheap whiskey before finding the cheapest bus package out of town. Having said that, it is kind of interesting. There are some decent clothes for sale (albeit at a more expensive price than elsewhere), all kinds of DVDs and souvenirs, and it makes for an interesting evening of people watching. Any accommodation located on Khao San Road itself should be avoided due to the noise factor but the surrounding area, locally known as Banglamphu, has some great accommodation. Soi Rambuttri is a quieter, much more pleasant version of Khao San Road. There are some great restaurants and street food, a chilled nightlife scene and a few vendors selling useful and interesting clothes and souvenirs. It’s walking distance to the Grand Palace and Wat Po and the pier at Phra Athit where you can jump on the Chao Phraya Rover Express. It’s also a nice place to stay if you want to avoid the seedier side of Bangkok’s nightlife. You can find the usual cheap rooms but there are some excellent options for flashpacker accommodation. Rambuttri Village Inn has varying degrees of rooms, all with AC, hot water and TV, starting at 550B per night. They also have a roof-top swimming pool. Around the corner on Phra Athit Road, there are some nice little restaurants and bars, same playing live music, where local hipsters hang out. New Siam II is another great flashpacker option with a swimming pool and a tasty restaurant. It has a nice family-friendly feel. Rooms start at 790B for AC, TV and hot water. Across the street and run by the same people, New Siam Riverside, is a more mid-range option with a riverside pool and restaurant and rooms from 1390B with AC, TV, hot water and internet. Taking it up a notch, but still mid-range in price, Navalai River Resort has stylishly decorated rooms with AC, TV, wifi and private balconies with prices starting at 2100B a night. Some of the rooms have a river view as does the roof-top pool.
Riverside
Bangkok’s luxury hotels are dotted along the Chao Phraya. If you’ve got the cash it’s a fantastic way to spend a few nights in the city but you will miss the street-life you’ll get in other areas… though this may be exactly what you want! You can connect easily to the Skytrain via the Chao Phraya River Express. There will always be plenty of taxis outside the big hotels but make sure they switch the meter on. The Mandarin Oriental gets consistently fantastic reviews for their attentive staff, excellent restaurants and five star facilities. There are two swimming pools, a fitness centre with complimentary classes, a spa and a cooking school on site. Rooms start at 10000B a night. It’s worth noting that some of the rooms are slightly older which not everyone will appreciate for the price. The Shangri-La Hotel is another great spot for a five-star experience in Bangkok. It is quiet, luxurious and offers everything you’d expect – several restaurants, a riverside pool, tennis courts spa services and even a chocolate boutique. Rates start at 5700B a night. Just across the river is the Peninsula with rooms starting from 7800B. They have their own shuttle boats that take you across the river connecting you with the Saphan Taksin pier and Skytrain station. With 39 storeys of rooms you’re bound to get a good view. They have excellent facilities including a palm tree-lined pool, wellness spa and several restaurants.
Airport
If you’ve got 12+ hours and want to see a bit of Bangkok rather than just crash out in a hotel room and sleep, head into one of the above areas for the night. If you’re arriving late at night and flying out early in the morning, you should stay at the airport. Here are few good options:
Sananwan Palace has standard rooms with AC and TV for 450B a night or for the day. They have a pool, wifi, massage and a restaurant on site. They don’t offer free transfers but can arrange transfers for 500B round trip if you contact them in advance.
Grand Pinnacle has standard double rooms with AC, wifi and TV for 680B a night. They have a restaurant, tour desk and also offer massages. There’s no pool but the rooms are nicer than at Sananwan Palace and they do free airport transfers.
Floral Shire Resort is a good midrange option. The rooms are nice and fairly modern with AC, TV, wifi and free breakfast for 1200B a night. They have a restaurant, massage and offer free airport transfers.
The Novotel Bangkok Suvarnabhumi is the closest hotel to the airport and offers rooms on a 24-hour basis rather than at set check out times. There is a 24-hour complimentary shuttle service located at Gate 4 or it’s a 10 minute walk by underground walkway which is open from 6am to midnight. They have restaurants, massage, a fitness centre and pool. Rooms start at around 4000B with AC, TV and broadband if booked through the hotel but look around for deals through online booking sites.
Day trips out of Bangkok
If you want to get out of the big city, the following make good destinations for a day trip. Many hotels and travel agents offer organised tours or you can do-it-yourself.
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is about 100kms outside Bangkok. If you’re not on an organised tour, catch a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal. It takes around two hours and drops you at the main pier. From there you can hire a boat for 300B per person per hour. The market is geared towards tourists so you’ll find a lot of souvenirs which you should expect to bargain for. The market opens at 7am and wraps up around midday.
Ayutthaya
You can head up to the former capital Ayutthaya and back in a day. The train or bus takes around 90 minutes each way. Once there, consider renting a bicycle to get around.
Kanchanaburi
Kanchanaburi, including the infamous Tiger Temple, elephant rides and the bridge over the river Kwai, can be done as a day trip from Bangkok if you’re up early and don’t mind spending a good chunk of your day in transit. Many convenient organised tours run from Bangkok and include these highlights. Tours are inexpensive and start around 1100B. Check what they include before you sign up as some may not include admission fees. If you want to do it yourself, take an early train and hire a taxi for the day once you get to Kanchanaburi and you’ll get to see what you want at your own pace.